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Monday, November 25, 2024

From Royal Abbey to Navy Hospital to Museum ⋆ Secrets and techniques of Paris


The 17th-century royal abbey of Val-de-Grâce, situated close to the Panthéon within the 5th arrondissement, turned a famend navy hospital and medical faculty after the French Revolution. The hospital has just lately closed and is being reworked right into a analysis and innovation campus devoted to digital expertise for well being, with plans to open its huge grounds as a public park in 2026. Whereas not often talked about in journey guides, the fascinating Val-de-Grâce Museum and the abbey’s Baroque church – although broken throughout final June’s explosion on the Rue St-Jacques — stay open to the general public. Extremely beneficial for individuals who need to discover a fantastic historic monument sans crowds and queues.  

The Creation of the Val-de-Grâce Abbey

The inception of Val de Grâce dates again to 1621 when Queen Anne of Austria, the devoutly Catholic spouse of King Louis XIII, arrange a Benedictine convent within the Faubourg St-Jacques district, alongside the well-known pilgrimage route, Saint Jacques de Compostelle (aka El Camino or Manner of St-. James). Married for 23 years with out an inheritor, she vowed to construct an impressive church if God gave her a son.

After the start of Louis XIV in 1638, she requested the royal architect François Mansart to construct the Val-de-Grâce Royal Abbey and Church. The primary stone was laid in 1645, and when the Baroque church with its grand dome and elaborate sculptures was accomplished in 1667, it was thought of an emblem of royal piety and architectural brilliance.

Mansart’s magnificent dome homes a fresco of celestial scenes by Pierre Mignard, “The Glory of the Blessed”. Equally beautiful is the baldachin designed by Gabriel Le Duc, an ornate construction over the excessive altar harking back to the one in Saint Peter’s Basilica in Rome. The historic Cavaillé-Coll organ, initially from the Panthéon, was put in within the church in 1891, and nonetheless used at the moment for classical live shows in addition to liturgical companies, regardless of struggling injury within the June 2023 explosion (see beneath).

The Abbey’s Transition to a Navy Hospital

Like many non secular establishments, Val-de-Grâce was seized and secularized throughout the French Revolution. Whereas the church was spared, the abbey was reworked right into a navy hospital in 1793, its substantial buildings and central location ideally suited for treating troopers wounded throughout the decade of conflicts generally known as the French Revolutionary Wars (1792-1802). Click on on pictures for captions.

The hospital shortly turned recognized for its excessive requirements of care and revolutionary medical practices (and in case you learn my final members’ article in regards to the sorry state of the Hôtel-Dieu Hospital on the Ile de la Cité within the 18th century, this wasn’t all the time a given in French hospitals on the time). With the addition of a navy medical faculty in 1850, the status and significance of Val-de-Grâce solely continued to develop as their companies supported the armed forces in wars all through the 19th and 20th centuries.

Val-de-Grâce produced a few of historical past’s best navy docs, surgeons, and medical researchers. For instance, the Military’s Chief Surgeon Dominique-Jean Larrey is taken into account the daddy of emergency drugs, along with his pioneering use of cell surgical ambulances on the battlefield throughout Napoléon I’s campaigns. And it was one of many epidemiology physicians at Val-de-Grâce, Dr. Hyacinthe Vincent, who developed the vaccine in opposition to typhoid fever in 1910 which proved essential in defending the French, British, and US troops from extreme outbreaks throughout World Conflict I.

The Trendy Period: Val-de-Grâce Continues Its Evolution

Val-de-Grâce advanced into considered one of France’s most prestigious navy hospitals, recognized formally as L’Hôpital d’Instruction des Armées du Val-de-Grâce. Within the Nineteen Seventies a brand new, state-of-the-art hospital and medical faculty adjoining to the historic website, constructed to accommodate superior medical applied sciences and supply complete care to navy personnel and their households. It was additionally the place high-profile people, reminiscent of France’s presidents, had been handled underneath strict confidentiality.

The modern hospital behind the 17th century buildings.
The fashionable hospital behind the seventeenth century buildings of Val-de-Grâce.

The hospital operated till 2016, when it was closed as a part of a broader restructuring of navy medical companies (the navy faculty and administrative workplaces are nonetheless there). Very like the Hôtel-Dieu, the Val de Grâce website is being reworked into the “PariSanté Campus”, a cutting-edge hub for digital well being and medical innovation. Scheduled to be accomplished in 2028, this new facility will host numerous analysis and innovation establishments.

Val-de-Grâce Gardens Will Open to the Public

With this transformation comes a bit bonus for everybody: the huge hospital grounds, which for now can solely be glimpsed by means of the fence alongside the Boulevard Port-Royal (and within the mannequin above), can be redeveloped and opened as a public park in 2026. This contains the addition of 112 new timber and restoration of the historic pathways. Watch this house…

The Val-de-Grâce Navy Drugs Museum

The Musée du Service de Santé des Armées (SSA), first opened in 1916, is a novel and interesting exploration of navy drugs housed within the historic buildings of the previous cloisters of the royal abbey. Whereas Paris is residence to a number of notable medical historical past museums, this one stands out for its particular deal with navy drugs. It’s additionally an awesome follow-up after you’ve visited the Military Museum at Les Invalides.

The museum’s assortment spans a number of centuries, taking you from Louis XIV’s naval battles to Napoléon’s Egypt campaigns to medical provides carried by troopers in WWII. Some highlights of the everlasting assortment embody:

  • Historic Medical Devices: Okay, these could be a bit creepy at occasions, but in addition fascinating to see how they’ve advanced over the previous 4 centuries.
  • Subject Surgical procedure and Cellular Hospitals: Displays element the evolution of battlefield drugs, from the early use of rudimentary instruments to the event of refined cell medical items. The shows embody fashions and reconstructions of area hospitals, highlighting the developments made in treating wounded troopers on the entrance traces.
  • Medical Uniforms and Tools: Like every good navy museum, you’ll see loads of uniforms, kits, and private gear utilized by navy medical personnel. This stuff provide a glimpse into the every day lives and challenges confronted by navy medics.
  • Medical Analysis and Improvements: Scientific breakthroughs and medical improvements that emerged from navy analysis, together with a hyperbaric chamber and a Véronique rocket head. Displays embody pioneering work in fields reminiscent of infectious illnesses, vaccination, and surgical strategies.
  • Navy Pharmacists: Their participation in main expeditions world wide within the nineteenth century and their work on poisonous conflict gases
  • Civilian Care: how the navy hospital helped look after civilian populations humanitarian actions, the creation of medical colleges and Pasteur institutes, the combat in opposition to main endemics and infectious illnesses (typhoid, plague, malaria) and progress in hygiene.
  • Artwork and Drugs: The museum additionally explores the intersection of artwork and drugs, with a group of medical illustrations, anatomical drawings, work depicting medical scenes, and the well-known “Damaged Faces” wax casts of mutilated troopers exhibiting the event of reconstructive maxillofacial surgical procedure throughout the First World Conflict.
  • Assortment of Docs Jacques and François Debat: An distinctive assortment put in within the outdated Benedictine kitchens of Italian and French earthenware pharmacy jars, medical devices, and 100 and three mortars, the oldest of which date again to historical Egypt.

Visiting the Museum

Musée du Service de Santé des Armées
1 Place Alphonse Laveran (at 279 Rue Saint-Jacques), fifth

Opening Hours: open every day besides Monday and Friday from noon-6pm. Closed in August, January 1st, Might 1st, and December 25th.

Getting Inside: Buzz the bell on the gate on the correct to be let in; stroll straight forward to the doorway that claims “Musée” the place you’ll be requested to your photograph ID and given a badge to put on; then the museum entrance and ticket desk is to your proper (don’t fear, the navy guards will let you know in case you’ve gone the flawed approach! 😉 )

Admission €5 (€2.50 for college students, and youngsters 6-18 years outdated). Free entry on July 14th.

Accessibility: The museum is accessible to guests with disabilities, nevertheless the church is just not.

Language: Sadly, there aren’t any English translations or audio guides, so that you’ll have to add your favourite smartphone auto-translator (Google Lens is nice for this, you simply hover over the phrases together with your digital camera and it interprets the phrases utilizing the identical font).

Newest Information: The Fb web page is up to date extra typically than their official web site: https://www.fb.com/museessa.valdegrace

Visiting the Church

L’Eglise Notre-Dame de la Nativité du Val-de-Grâce, additionally simply generally known as the Chapelle du Val-de-Grâce, celebrates Catholic plenty each Sunday at 11am. You possibly can see the church exterior service hours as a part of your museum go to, or throughout the free organ live shows each first Sunday of the month, October by means of June, at 5:30pm.

The subsequent live performance — the final for the season — is on June 2nd to commemorate the 80th anniversary of the Liberation of Paris, that includes organist Hervé Désarbre, saxophonist Antonin Cros, conductor Captain Frédéric Foulquier, and the musicians of the Republican Guard taking part in works by Bach, Berlioz, Copland, Marly, Ganne, Touche, Glenn Miller, Milhaud, and many others. Doorways open at 5pm.  

Harm from the Rue St-Jacques Explosion

On June 21, 2023, there was an explosion subsequent to Val-de-Grâce at 277 Rue Saint-Jacques, which utterly demolished the Paris American Academy, killing three individuals. The explosion additionally broken Val-de-Grâce Church, blowing out 15 stained glass home windows, and affecting the historic Cavaillé-Coll organ and the monumental baldachin, each categorized as historic monuments. The primary two photographs from Google Maps present the constructing earlier than the explosion. The third photograph exhibits the ruins of 277 Rue St-Jacques, and the final photograph is a clos-up of one of many short-term home windows changing the church’s stained glass.

Whereas the church was solely briefly closed (and actually, it nonetheless appears higher than many uncared for church buildings in Paris), fundraising efforts are underway to lift the roughly a million euros that can be wanted to totally restore the church.  When you’re feeling impressed to donate (tax deductible in case you’re a French resident), take a look at the Fondation du Patrimoine web site: https://www.fondation-patrimoine.org/les-projets/eglise-notre-dame-de-la-nativite-du-val-de-grace  

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